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- Less is more concerning paint. I liked the images better when they were skeleton-y.
- Use a tweezer to carefully remove the leaves. The paint was a bit sticky and many of the the leaves were very thin and papery.
- It takes a long time to dry, so if you want to overprint, let it sit for several hours or overnight--even in the dry Utah desert.
- It works better on a padded surface. I used 4-5 layers of paper towels.
- If you goof (you wouldn't know that the above print was a goof, would you?), since the paint is soluble, you can spritz it with water and let it bleed on purpose. Also, (note above) that I spritzed too much water and it got runny, so I dabbed it with a patterned paper towel and VOILA! No fail.
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Next, I made a gelatin base for monoprinting. This was my first adventure with that technique. I'm not sure I captured anything more than some basic trial and error beginner's stuff, but here are some of the results.
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The one above is one of my favorites. It's a grape leaf.
Then we have an old kid's type rubber stamp-foamy with the negative/positive monoprint.
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This leaf is a 4 inch long viburnum, which is leathery and hairy, as well as having strong veins.
When I printed the leaves, I always made a "leaf sandwich" so I got both sides of the leaf at the same time. On the gelatin monoprint, I lifted the print from the leaf, then brayered gold ink onto the leaf and imprinted it onto the gelatin, then pulled it off with the paper. By then the gelatin was getting a bit ragged. The good news is that I only used one side of the gelatin block, so today I can try new things on the other side of it.
So, I'll "LEAVE" you with a few more images. Try it on your own or with your kids.
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